Hanalei 6/89 Just before the one-lane wooden bridge on the lush far side of Hanalei we brake hard to avoid a young local staggering a not quite drunkard's careen down the double lines of the center strip my eyes lock on his as we pass I curve my lips and nod in the way I have learned it is done here but his returning glare is no surprise He has come a long way to obstruct traffic I imagine him taking a long last drag on his buddy's stubby joint at the park and jumping up from the concrete table the sullen angry talk at an end, "Eh! I gonna show dose bugga's... I gonna show 'em..." and lurching off in the direction of the asphalt "Eh Milton, calm down, come back..." "Nah, I goin' walk down da middle of da fuckin' hiway all da way home" "Bra, you cannot, day gon' nail you, Day gon' nail your ass ... fo'get it" But the kid's beyond hearing words swept up in the vision of noble defiance to be made on the sacramental pavement He must have seen a hundred cars pass each with its two or three tourists each of whom were briefly irritated at having to slow or stop for him rolling up windows, locking doors Groundless was their fear though for he found himself just looking at them into their eyes, into their souls What's in there? What do you want? He had never taken the time to look No harm meant, lady, or sir I'm just a tourist on your your highway and I have come to see your faces to see why I am dying of coldness here in my home of Hanalei 2 I am here to show you myself that my body is blood and flesh and that dying means nothing to me when you have taken my birthright Oh I'm angry, but I won't smile I cannot live without this land its beauty is not your aesthetics it is my breath, my feet, my hands the fish are my food, the rain my water and fifty miles an hour is too fast you are so greedy, even you nice ones who dare to face my rage you sensitive ones who know it all who bring your shiny boards on cars and crowd our waves and our sand you guys are the worst of all now that you've trashed Maui your coming over here to trash us with your pole homes and gates your Hemmeters and Hyatts like that concrete monstrosity on the point down the bay you built it, you guys with your visas and your watches and your needs your boredom is killing me So our eyes meet briefly and I drink of his salty mouth and become his soul, and he mine and he walks on and we drive the long gentle road to Poipu. Out in the bay the surf is dropping older guys, flabby like me, have made the long paddle out to partake in the perfection of wave and waterfall, wind and cloud We glimpse a large sunlit swell I am stroking to reach the pocket and drop from its feathering crest control on the edge as the wall collapses I crouch in the cool grasp of oblivion.